Luster is also important and one of the first factors to notice. Luster is an intense brightness that illuminates from within the pearl rather than just being "shiny" like in imitation pearls. The intense brightness results from light being reflected throughout the numerous layers of nacre. Quality pearls will have a sharp contrast between the brightest area where direct light is hitting the pearls and the shaded area creating an illusion of a "ball within the pearl." Check for luster by examining them under a fluorescent lamp and rolling them from side to side to examine uniform luster. Examine pearls over a light gray or white material and never black because it is harder to see the true quality of the pearl. Pearl color is also important. When choosing pearls note there body color and overtones. The most desirable and more rare white pearls have "rose" colored overtones. Cream colored pearls are more affordable because they are less rare. Also, pearls can have tones rated in intensity. Darker toned pearls are more desirable and expensive compared to lighter toned pearls. Many natural body colors are available in pearls including white, black, gray, blue, gold, pink, and green. Distinctive colored pearls are rarer and harder to find. Have a qualified gemologist check the pearls to make sure they have not been dyed, especially for costlier pearls like the black or golden varieties.
Examine pearls' surface for blemishes. Although is best to check for most pearl characteristics on a light background, it is best to check for blemishes on a dark background. Check in both intense and diffused light. No pearls are perfect and small blemishes can be sacrificed for more important quality like nacre and luster. Pearls with higher luster conceal blemishes better.
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